The exaggerated, smoky, stewed vegetable, black-plum-scented nose is controversial. The dark ruby/purple color reveals some amber, but little other evidence of age. Spicy, with sweet fruit, the 1981 La Landonne tastes like an overly smoked piece of meat. Nevertheless, there is plenty of richness. Anticipated maturity: now-2002. Last tasted 12/95.
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