This is classic Washington Chardonnay, from the winery that first put it on the national map. It’s beautifully built upon ripe apple, pineapple and kiwi fruit, with proportionate acid and lovely, lightly toasty oak. The alcohol is 14.3%, and the wine strikes a perfect note of weight and density, without being fat or fatiguing.——P.G.(12/1/2007)—— 92