In this freeze-plagued year the estate vineyard was shut out, but any Chardonnay that is made of 100% Celilo Vineyard fruit has nothing to apologize about. Lots of toasty oak jumps out from this still-tight, acidic wine, but as it opens the crisp mix of pear, pineapple and citrus, along with a hint of rock, creates a firm and balanced, very pleasing wine. ——P.G.(10/1/2006)—— 88