Chateau de Chambolle’s 2007 Chambolle-Musigny Les Fuees transports the taster to a dark forest floor full of passing game. But there is ripe fruit, too, in the form of mace-tinged lightly-cooked plum and black raspberry. With an almost stewed palate richness, this may not be especially Chambolle-typical; but it’s nonetheless satisfying, leading to a finish in which the animal and woodsy elements as well as those of spice and fruit are present in equal measure, ‘though I suspect that over the next 4-6 years – when I anticipate this being most fun to drink – the balance will tip in the carnal direction. Frederic Mugnier’s 2008s – which I last tasted shortly before their March bottling – did not experience the exceptionally late malo-lactic transformation that characterized so many wines of that vintage. Yields were especially low thanks not only to vintage-typical millerandage, but – particularly in the case of Les Amoureuses – to the vines’ slow recovery from the shock of 2007 hail. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet; fax 011-333-80-24-29-70