Due to the drought in 2009, Tablas Creek only bottled Roussanne and Grenache Blanc—no varietal Picpoul, Marsanne or Viognier was made. This 2009 Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc, a blend of 62% Roussanne, 26% Grenache Blanc and 12% Picpoul Blanc bottled under cork, has a pretty nose with honeycomb, beeswax, baked peaches and dried tropical fruit notions plus pie crust, dried mushroom, hay, baked quince and apples—what lovely layers! Medium to full-bodied, it's broad in the mouth and savory, still with enough acidity to refresh and a very long, savory finish. This could age a bit more but is drinking well now. 1,825 cases were made.

The flagship 2009 Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc is 62% Roussanne, 26% Grenache Blanc and 12% Picpoul Blanc. It reveals lovely delineation, freshness and verve. Scents of white peaches, flowers, minerals come together beautifully on the layered finish. The 2009 Esprit has lovely vibrancy for the vintage, mostly owing to the inclusion of 12% Picpoul, which adds much needed acidity. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. Tablas Creek was founded as a partnership between Chateau de Beaucastel in Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Robert Haas, owner of Beaucastel’s US importer, Vineyard Brands. Tablas Creek is one of the pioneers for Rhone varieties in Paso Robles, not just for the quality of the wines, but just as importantly for creating a nursery of clones from Beaucastel cuttings that are now used widely throughout the region. The estate currently has about 105 acres under vine. Tablas Creek works with indigenous yeasts and favors large, neutral oak barrels and casks for aging. Vintage 2009 was the third in a series of drought years for the estate, which along with a severe spring frost reduced yields dramatically to less than 1.85 tons per acre. The wines, though, are striking. Vintage 2010 could not have been more different. There was no spring frost. Instead the estate received a whopping 44 inches of rain. A cold summer led to a late harvest that started during the second half of October and lasted until early November. Readers will find a broad range of compelling bottles across all price ranges. As an aside, Tablas Creek is one of the highest-quality estates in California that has the facilities and capacity to receive visitors.Tel. (805) 237-1231; www.tablascreek.com

A delicious wine, with flavors of peaches, pineapples, apricots, buttered toast and vanilla. It’s a bit soft and sweet.——S.H.(7/1/2011)—— 87