The 2001 Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc was the debut vintage of this cuvée, and it's still drinking well, offering up a mature bouquet of frangipane, drawn butter, preserved lemon and subtle bay leaf. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, pure and stony, with a chalky, dry finish. It's in no danger of imminent decline!

The 2001 Esprit de Beaucastel blanc (an outstanding blend of 44% Roussanne, 22% Viognier, 18% Grenache, and 16% Marsanne) offers a beautiful perfume of flowers, honeysuckle, tangerines, pears, and citrus oils. Medium to full-bodied, pure, fresh, and lively (despite its substantial size), it will provide enormous pleasure over the next several years. The white wines, which are Mediterranean in style, are well-worth checking out by those who find many Rhone Ranger whites too overblown and Chardonnays too woody and diluted. Little new oak is utilized as the fruit is clearly in the forefront.Tel. 805-237-1231; Fax 805-237-1314

An enormously complex wine, a real step forward in a California dry white wine. These Rhone grapes blend tropical fruit and peach flavors with tangy minerals and dried herbs. Despite the big flavors, the wine has lively acidity, and is a guaranteed cellar candidate for a decade. A blend of Roussanne, Viognier, Grenache and Marsanne.——S.H.(12/1/2003)—— 94