Pierre-Marie Chermette Domaine du Vissoux Fleurie les Garants, Beaujolais, France

威蘇酒莊皮埃爾-瑪麗富樂(lè)里加朗紅葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：3930

From similarly middle-aged vines on decomposed granite, Chermette’s 2008 Fleurie Les Garants – from some of the highest elevations in its appellation, and like the Couderts’ Clos de la Roilette, classified as Moulin-a-Vent until 1927 – evinces a smoky, alkaline overlay to its panoply of ripe yet tart fruits. Reflecting its late harvest, there is a spicy intensity and abundance of inner-mouth esters yet as always from this site, an energy and brightness – in this instance of cherry and rhubarb – but this year an especially serious sense of grip, and a less treble, high-toned personality than the Poncie. Here too, 4-5 years’ bottle potential seems a conservative estimate. Pierre Chermette has successfully expanded from his base in southern Beaujolais without quality in any way suffering; on the contrary his mastery of the northern Beaujolais crus is now also a fait accompli. With the new generation coming on and with lots of new plans, following these wines – which, of course, includes in your own cellar – is going to continue to be exciting. Prices have crept upward, but given the quality – not to mention the labors needed to achieve it – one can hardly complain. Yields were very low in 2008, a condition, Chermette opines, for achieving genuine and complete ripeness. (Note that since Chermette’s label now features his name writ large and “Vissoux” in tiny letters, I have listed his wines accordingly.)Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800