The 2006 Meursault Clos de Mazeray – from a Prieur monopole at the southern edge of the village – testifies to Gublin's cautious extraction and her team's scrupulous selectivity, by its silken texture and purity of fresh cherry fruit. Chalky and savory, saline mineral suggestions – along with hints of citrus oil – add depth, and this finishes with the combination of levity and palate-staining concentration that characterize so many of the most successful wines of the vintage. I would love to taste it truly blind, and I suspect that there would be an equally high probability under those conditions of its being guessed as Meursault as there would be as Pinot Noir! I imagine this will continue to deliver great satisfaction for at least 4-5 years in bottle. Enologist Nadine Gublin reports that the Prieur team performed a severe triage of 2006 Pinot – especially from the Cote de Beaune – both in the vineyards and on tables. The fine results speak for themselves, boasting (with one exception) purity of fruit and complexity, as well as a range of distinctively 2006 virtues. Their Chambertin – which, like the wine from their other grand crus, had been assembled but not yet bottled when I last tasted them – presented a special challenge due to the degree to which the Prieur parcels were damaged by hail, and a decision was made to declassify even the small amount of fruit that was vinified. The Pinot crop was harvested at 12.5-13.5% potential alcohol; required no adjustment; and was all destemmed. The wines were (or will for the most part have been) lightly plaque-filtered.Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700
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