The brilliant 1999 reveals blueberry and blackberry fruit intermixed with creosote, tar, licorice, and earth. Medium to full-bodied, with sweet fruit as well as excellent purity, it should drink well for a decade. Importer: a Christopher Cannan Selection, various American importers including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300 and Diamond Wine Merchants, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 567-9897

Bacon, sawdust and earth along with cassis and raspberry kick start this lively, acid-driven red. The palate offers tart plum and raspberry, all steered to a point by piercing, laser-beam acidity. Oak plays a prominent role throughout, especially on the finish. The gritty tannins, firm feel and strong acids call for a few years of cellaring.——M.S.(3/1/2004)—— 88