Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Pittermannchen Riesling Spatlese, Nahe, Germany

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The Diel 2011 Dorsheimer Pittermannchen Riesling Spatlese extends the Traminer-like rose petal, smoky black tea, and pungent caraway of the corresponding Kabinett, adding in luscious musk melon, pineapple and pink grapefruit. The expansiveness, enveloping fruit intensity, textural creaminess and sheer sweetness here all mitigate a bit against cut, invigoration, or an interactive sense of complexity; but there is still enough primary juiciness to engender some refreshment, and more than enough appeal to reel you back for the next sip. This should stay fresh for 15-20 years during which – assuming its sense of sweetness backs off as one would anticipate – it may well reveal more nuance. Caroline Diel is now the mother of two, but shows every intention and indication of personally staying on top of her estate’s viticulture. In collaboration with long-time cellarmaster Christoph Friedrich, she is both perpetuating and further refining the styles of wine that have come to characterize and enhance the long-standing reputation of Schlossgut Diel. Picking began in the last week of September and most of the top Rieslings were harvested already in the first week of October, by which point there was a significant amount of botrytis, happily largely noble, most of it picked-out in parallel with the fruit for the Grosse Gewachse. Wisely, I think – as heaven knows they have an austere side as is – the Diels elected for the sake of moderating alcohol to leave a bit more residual sugar behind this year than usual in their Grosse Gewachse. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300