Starts out with aromas of peaches and green apples, made complex by the addition of butter, oak, oriental-spice accents, and a whiff of anise or pine. Really comes alive on the palate, where it has all the required big-Chard elements of deeply ripe fruit, well-integrated oak, lees, and fine acidity. What's notable is the tight, elegant balance and harmony. ——S.H.(11/15/2000)—— 92