Cofermented with about 3% Viognier, this estate-grown Syrah is done in a style quite different from anywhere else on the West Coast. It’s racy and almost delicate, with none of the jammy fruit of California or the funk of Washington. But what it does have is grace and detail—starting with plums and cherries and bringing in loads of spice and chocolate, hints of coffee grounds and a whiff of tobacco. It’s all elegantly displayed, lingering and polished, with surprising length. ——P.G.(3/1/2011)—— 91
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