The 2009 Chassagne-Montrachet La Maltroie bursts from the glass with generous, opulent fruit. The Maltroie is a radiant, expressive wine graced with gorgeous depth and richness. Despite its exuberance, at times, the Maltroie gives the impression of being somewhat closed in on itself (if that makes sense), suggesting it needs further time in bottle to reveal the full breadth of its pedigree. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Bruno Colin’s 2009s show quite a bit of freshness for the year. The harvest began early, on September 5. The malos were finished in between December 2009 and March 2010. The Bourgogne, St. Aubin En Charmois and Chassagne-Montrachet were bottled before the 2010 harvest, while the rest of the 2009s were bottled in March 2011. I tasted the 2010 Bourgogne Aligote, Bourgogne, St. Aubin En Charmois and Chassagne-Montrachet from steel, while the remainder of the 2010s were in barrel. Colin planned to rack the rest of the 2010s in July and bottle in the winter of 2011/2012. Importers: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524