The Bruno Colin 2007 Chassagne-Montrachet Maltroie displays ripe peach and sweetly perfumed floral aromas, which presage a more generous, suggestively sweet palate impression than in other wines of this collection, with luscious grapefruit and tart black currant and huckleberry supplying counterpoint. It finishes with some of the rather Chablis-like crustacean savor that accrues to several of its siblings, along with chalk, and salt that prompt lip smacking and invigoration. This is handsomely lean, happily bright wine that for those reasons doesn't turn austere. It should be deliciously versatile over the next half dozen – perhaps more – years. Bruno Colin continues vinify his share of inheritance (modestly supplemented by contract fruit) in the family's ancient cellars, which now permit his wines longer time assembled in tank and later bottling. He says he did very little batonnage in 2007 (even less in 2006) and is treating his wines to higher levels of sulfur as a further precaution against pre-mature oxidation. (Some of these wines, incidentally, continue to be bottled under the Colin-Deleger label.) Imported by Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185; Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400; Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524