Domaine Tselepos Mantinia Moschofilero, Peloponnese, Greece

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The 2009 MOSCHOFILERO is from a high altitude vineyard (2000 feet) and made in vat. It is quite attractive in its youth, fresh, clean and pure, only 12% alcohol. Early on, it is also surprisingly rich for Moschofilero, but that rich feel is not all it has. It has fine persistence and a lingering finish, too, with a bit of bite to it, a burst of acidity. It is also bursting with flavor, succulent and simply delicious. I’m not sure this is quite as racy as the ’08, but it holds its own surprisingly well and I liked this more and more as it aired out. Given that this is a grape that tends not to age well, if given the choice, buy the fresher version for sure as this is very successful in its own right. A note on the name: In Greek fashion, much like “Chambertin” in Burgundy, the more prominent name here on the label is MANTINIA, the appellation. Consumers are supposed to recognize that means Moschofilero; but since the winery helpfully indicates underneath that it is Moschofilero, I’ve adopted that as the name to avoid redundancy, as our notes always contain a regional appellation indication anyway. Just know that you’ll see it both ways. Drink now-2012. Importers: VOS Selections, New York, N.Y.; tel: (212) 967-6948 and Dionysos Imports, Manassas, Va; tel: (703) 392-7073