Niellon made phenomenal 1985s and 1986s, but his 1989s might ultimately eclipse even those two exceptional vintages. There is no doubting that these wines possess decadent levels of fruit and an almost syrupy viscosity. They are so overwhelmingly rich and opulent, they could easily be compared with some of the greatest white burgundies made in the last decade. Even the village 1989 Chassagne-Montrachet, although somewhat top heavy, is bursting with buttery popcorn-scented fruit, displaying a richness and thickness to its flavors that is rarely seen. But the acidity barely holds things together, so projecting how a wine with such a fragile balance might evolve is tricky. I would opt for consuming this chewy gem over the next 2-3 years. Importer: Chateau and Estates, New York, NY.
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