Beautifully light and graceful as it pours from the bottle, this is another epic wine from Giuseppe Russo of Girolamo Russo. His 2018 Etna Rosso San Lorenzo is firm and structured, even more so than the other single-vineyard expressions from this vintage. The San Lorenzo parcel measures eight hectares at 730 to 770 meters in altitude and is planted to 70-year-old vines. The bouquet is detailed and fine, and it takes a minute or two to compose a list of adjectives to describe it. There is wild berry and blue flower for sure, and the wine fleshes out nicely with mineral aromas, smoke and tar. This release of 4,000 bottles is a journey under the volcano.