What sets the 2011 Etna Rosso San Lorenzo apart is the purity of the wine’s bouquet. There’s a great sense of focus here with delicate floral perfumes mixed with spice, dark fruit and cigar ash. San Lorenzo is also slightly fuller and more generous on the palate. Drink 2015-2030. Giuseppe Russo is among my favorite Etna producers. A trained pianist, he abandoned music to make wine after his father’s death. His cellar is the old garage that his father once used for woodshop, and his mom (a fabulous cook) lives in the apartment above. Giuseppe has recently made improvements to his winery space and he continues to farm according to tried and true Etna tradition. Importer: Panebianco, www.panebiancollc.com