Ostertag’s 2004 Pinot Gris is very pungently smoky, and possessed of a hint of peach pit bitterness in the nose. On the rich, sappy, oily palate, yellow plum dominates, suffused with lees and chalk dust, lanolin, hints of fruit pit bitterness, and wood notes, and the finish grows and glows as this wine opens-up with air. Andre Ostertag continues to render some of the most distinctively delicious and thought-provoking wines in Alsace. He now has 120 parcels among his 35 acres, and no grower of my acquaintance gives more thought to aesthetic and stylistic considerations when it comes to vinifying and assembling his many lots.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524