Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Beerenauslese, Nahe, Germany

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Cinnamon-laced quince jelly, marzipan and caramel dominate Diels’ 2011 Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Beerenauslese, which, like its Burgberg counterpart, is dominated (for now and the foreseeable future at least) by sheer sweetness. But the allure of a soothingly creamy – indeed, subtly buttery – texture and this elixir’s lingering intensity ought not to be underestimated. (In any event, they are impossible to overlook.) What’s more, some piquant elements of toasted almond and peach kernel lend welcome counterpoint and a bit of push-back to the wine’s sweetness. As a measure of how rich was this material, consider that the Burgberg finishes with only 7% alcohol while this Goldloch reached 9%, yet tastes virtually as sweet! Lock some away if you have 20-30 year expectancy for your own life, or an heir with a sweet tooth. Caroline Diel is now the mother of two, but shows every intention and indication of personally staying on top of her estate’s viticulture. In collaboration with long-time cellarmaster Christoph Friedrich, she is both perpetuating and further refining the styles of wine that have come to characterize and enhance the long-standing reputation of Schlossgut Diel. Picking began in the last week of September and most of the top Rieslings were harvested already in the first week of October, by which point there was a significant amount of botrytis, happily largely noble, most of it picked-out in parallel with the fruit for the Grosse Gewachse. Wisely, I think – as heaven knows they have an austere side as is – the Diels elected for the sake of moderating alcohol to leave a bit more residual sugar behind this year than usual in their Grosse Gewachse. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300