The 2009 Vinha da Defesa Tinto is a blend of Touriga Nacional and Syrah, aged in French oak for 6 months. This is usually a pretty nice value point, and so it is again this year. Nicely balanced, with a slight tinge of oak in its youth, this seems flavorful and somewhat gripping on the finish, although the tannins are reasonably well integrated. Although the mid-palate is in fact not all that concentrated, it feels quite full in the mouth on first attack and surprisingly rich, even though it has the structure to go with the fruit. It becomes a bit intense with some air, more than I thought I would see, making it rather well put together for a wine in this price range. It also develops a bit of an earthy, slightly gamey note, no doubt the Syrah asserting itself, which some will love, and others might not. It should be at peak soon. Drink now-2016. Importer: Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044; for Washington and Oregon only: Vinum Importing, Redmond, WA; tel. (206) 621-8843
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