The 2006 VINHA DA DEFESA Tinto is soft and easy, a blend of Castelao and Aragonez, aged for 6 months in new French oak. It has a bright feel on the finish, as well as a somewhat herbaceous nose. The mid-palate thins a bit too quickly, and the wine is short on the finish, but this is a decent performance for a modestly priced wine made in quantity (23,000 cases) in a difficult year. The problem is that Esporao’s current, lesser priced releases seem to perform about as well. Drink now-2010. This old stalwart in Alentejo provides some of the best buys in Portugal. Its current lineup is notable for the number of fine values, even with the continuing problems with exchange rates (many of these prices may have been set before the recent resurgence of the dollar). Sometimes, the big question here is simply why you should bother to trade up to their more expensive wines.Importers: Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044; for Washington and Oregon only: Vinum Importing, Redmond, WA; tel. (206) 621-8843
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