The 2017 Ladoix Le Clou d'Orge (Domaine Gagey) is showing well from bottle, unwinding in the glass with hints of lemon oil, crisp white peach and wet stones. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, it's deep but chiseled, with fine concentration, racy acids and a long, mineral finish. This is an understated but characterful wine that's beautifully defined by site.