Vanilla, nutmeg, and star anise mingle with ripe, bitter-sweet black fruits in the nose of a 2006 Vosne-Romanee more refined in texture than the wines that preceded it in the Lecheneaut line-up. It was removed from barrel sooner, which in the context of 2006 fruit character may have made a difference. The polish here runs all the way through an exceedingly succulent and subtly-spiced and forest floor-inflected finish. I would plan to savor this over the next half dozen years. Vincent and Philippe Lecheneaut report having ended up with higher potential alcohol in their 2006 fruit than in 2005 – though not, they hasten to add, equally ripe flavors – and having accordingly performed scarcely any chaptalization, so that only a few of the wines finished at over 13%. The regimen of new wood was essentially unchanged from 2005, which I think worked to the disadvantage of a number of these 2006s, wines that – while very well made, and in some instances distinguished – suffer considerably by comparison with their immediate predecessors.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083
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