The 2002 Roussanne (1,000 cases) was aged in equal parts stainless steel and wood. An exotic perfume of sealing wax, melted butter, peaches, pineapples, rose petals, and orange skins is followed by a full-bodied white with superb delineation, and a long finish. A distinctive taste of anise can be found in this noble, complex, exotic white. This intense dry white is ideal to drink with seafood over the next 3-4 years. Tel. 805-237-1231; Fax 805-237-1314

Distinctive for its white chocolate flavor and rich, creamy texture. There are also flamboyant notes of guava, nectarine, peach, wildflowers, vanilla and smoke. This opulent wine is filled with vibrant acidity, and is excellently balanced. It is a sure candidate to improve for at least five years in the cellar. ——S.H.(2/1/2004)—— 90