The 2019 Volnay 1er Cru—as usual, a blend of Taillepieds and Clos des Chênes—is lovely, unwinding in the glass with aromas of cherries, wild berries, raw cocoa and loamy soil. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and seamless, with tangy acids and a concentrated core of fruit, it's bright and elegant, built for slow evolution in the cellar.