L'Oustal Blanc Minervois La Liviniere Prima Donna, Languedoc-Roussillon, France

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The L’Oustal 2007 Minervois La Liviniere Prima Donna is 40% Syrah (required by law for this sub-appellation, and here aged in new barriques), and around half Grenache (from centenarian vines, and vinified in upright demi-muids), with the Syrah receiving a bit of treatment at the hands of “Doc’ Carignan.” The estate’s highest-elevation parcels in pure Marne clay-limestone are favored, so as to achieve a well-balanced and, while ample, never a heavy wine. Black raspberry preserves, sandalwood, and chocolate-covered, cinnamon-dusted almonds are principle themes here, and indeed the goal of enormous ripeness along with lift and persistent refreshment has been strikingly achieved. Texturally, this is about as plush, creamy, and refined as any young wine I have tasted from the Languedoc, which reinforces its milk chocolate, marzipan, and jam-like richness. At the same time, there is meaty depth here and a lip-smacking salinity, exuberant freshness, and invigorating vivacity that simply carry you away in the finish. I wouldn’t worry about how long to hold it – though surely a decade won’t be too long – I would just concentrate on getting some of this into your cellar! Claude and Isabel Fonquerle began farming Minervois La Liviniere in 2002, in partnership with oenologist Philippe Cambie of Chateauneuf du Pape. (They also have a sliver of acreage near one of their two facilities, in the St. Chinian appellation.) Nearly all of their vines are old and head pruned. Fruit is rigorously selected at picking, chilled overnight, and then sorted twice more by bunch and berry before crushing, and fermentative skin contact can run for one or two months! “While Chateauneuf remains the source of my orientation,” says Claude, “Burgundy is my inspiration. The purity of fruit and the minerality in those wines is something magical. Think of Henri Jayer!” I’ve heard that Burgundy line the world over, and I’m not sure to what extent I’d call these wines “Burgundian.” But purity of fruit and elements one can only describe as “mineral,” they surely display in abundance. It would be less misleading – and no exaggeration – to say that this team has already redefined the potential of Minervois, and bottled what are almost certainly the finest and most exciting wines ever grown in that appellation, not to mention their representing extraordinary values. This is not the same as saying “of that appellation,” incidentally, because not all L’Oustal Blanc wines follow the blends permitted or the protocol prescribed for Minervois. The Fonquerle’s mutual inspiration and admiration with horn player Jacques Adnet of the Paris Opera has resulted in the re-christening of their upper-level cuvees with names inspired by music. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800