L'Oustal Blanc Minervois La Liviniere Prima Donna, Languedoc-Roussillon, France

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The 2006 Minervois La Liviniere Prima Donna by now predictably is more restrained than its 2007 counterpart. But there are stony, humus-like, and meaty dimensions here worth pondering, along with rich black raspberry and cherry fruit that will pamper your palate. Looser, and far less energetic or penetrating than the 2007, this will also be far more accommodating at the table over the next several years, yet I’m not sure it will be that much less intriguing to follow over a longer period. Certainly the remarkable polish and refinement of tannins that Fonquerle and Cambie have figured out how to achieve are every bit as evident as in the 2007, and, given the character of the ripening season, even more remarkable. Claude and Isabel Fonquerle began farming Minervois La Liviniere in 2002, in partnership with oenologist Philippe Cambie of Chateauneuf du Pape. (They also have a sliver of acreage near one of their two facilities, in the St. Chinian appellation.) Nearly all of their vines are old and head pruned. Fruit is rigorously selected at picking, chilled overnight, and then sorted twice more by bunch and berry before crushing, and fermentative skin contact can run for one or two months! “While Chateauneuf remains the source of my orientation,” says Claude, “Burgundy is my inspiration. The purity of fruit and the minerality in those wines is something magical. Think of Henri Jayer!” I’ve heard that Burgundy line the world over, and I’m not sure to what extent I’d call these wines “Burgundian.” But purity of fruit and elements one can only describe as “mineral,” they surely display in abundance. It would be less misleading – and no exaggeration – to say that this team has already redefined the potential of Minervois, and bottled what are almost certainly the finest and most exciting wines ever grown in that appellation, not to mention their representing extraordinary values. This is not the same as saying “of that appellation,” incidentally, because not all L’Oustal Blanc wines follow the blends permitted or the protocol prescribed for Minervois. The Fonquerle’s mutual inspiration and admiration with horn player Jacques Adnet of the Paris Opera has resulted in the re-christening of their upper-level cuvees with names inspired by music. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800