Moving to the reds, and an outstanding 2011, the traditional 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape is a blend of 70% Grenache, 10% each of Syrah and Mourvedre, and the balance Cinsault, which was aged all in foudre. Silky and polished, with ultra-fine tannin, medium-bodied richness and spice-laced aromas of blackberry fruit, licorice and brown spice, it is already approachable and delicious, yet should evolve gracefully given its overall balance and elegance. Drink now-2021. Made by brothers Frederic and Daniel Coulon, this estate produces two cuvees in both red and white: a traditional cuvee and a more modern-styled cuvee Boisrenard. The traditional cuvees – both red and white – see larger format aging (tank and foudre) while the cuvee Boisrenard sees more barrel aging and comes from the older vines of the estate. Both the 2011s and 2012s reviewed here appear to be more refined and elegant than past vintages, with an emphasis on fine tannin, purity and freshness. Importers: A Christopher Cannan Selection, Europvin; Lauber Imports, Somerville, NJ; tel. (908) 725-2100 and Ruby Wines, Avon, MA; tel. (508) 588-7007