Weingut Emrich-Schonleber Monzinger Fruhlingsplatzchen Riesling Grosses Gewachs Trocken, Nahe, Germany

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Quince, white peach, and hints of red currant and framboise and gentian distillates alluringly scent the Schonlebers’ 2008 Monzinger Fruhlingsplatzchen Riesling Grosses Gewachs, which displays distinctly fusil and stony notes along with pit fruit and red berry freshness on the palate. There is an underlying sense of density and a plushness of texture that one would not ordinarily expect in a wine so bright. Almond cream and quince offer a soothing suggestion in the finish while red berries and white peach offer vivacious refreshment, for a lingering, contrapunctal effect. This refined, subtly complex Riesling should be worth following for at least the better part of a decade. Werner and Frank Schonleber are another Nahe dream team whose amazing performance in 2007 has been equaled in 2008. “I wouldn’t call it a vintage with the emphasis on fruit,” says Werner Schonleber, “but rather on a pronounced, saline minerality. And there was no great selection of nobly sweet wine this year, because every three or four days it would rain at least a little bit.” He offers as “a very simple explanation” of this pronounced minerality the classic one adduced by growers (whether or not scientifically supportable) that the vines better “assimilate mineral stuff” when mild weather and plenty of moisture grease – as it were – the wheels of plant metabolism. And such vintages always boast measurably high levels of dry extract; the question remains, has that – as most growers believe – anything to do with their expression of flavors for which we feel compelled to employ mineral vocabulary?Importers: Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644; Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463