Weingut Emrich-Schonleber Monzinger Fruhlingsplatzchen Riesling Grosses Gewachs Trocken, Nahe, Germany

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The Schonleber 2006 Monzinger Fruhlingsplatzchen Riesling Grosses Gewachs is subtly tart and bitter, its red berry and citrus mingling with toasted walnut, peach kernel, and wet slate. But that is not to suggest the flavors are less than ripe. Furthermore, even though around 13% in alcohol, it displays an almost chiffon-like lightness on the palate quite contrasting with the Spatlese trocken. Here, too, we have a diversity and subtlety of mineral notes in the finish that are worthy of a geologist, as well as rich nut oils and a yet sappier, more vivid though tart red berry character than in the corresponding Spatlese trocken. “I’m not dogmatic” about yeasts, says Schonleber, but at least this year, the Fruhlingsplatzchen bottlings for the most part (and including this one) fermented without the addition of cultured yeasts, whereas the Halenberg were yeasted. Fruit from the old vines in this rocky parcel on red sandstone bore golden, botrytis free fruit, says Schonleber. This should be worth following for 10-12 years in bottle. “The Nahe had the capability to render really good dry wines this year,” asserts Werner Schonleber. “Elsewhere, the botrytis was problematic, or the ripening took place too quickly. But we caught the whole spectrum here.” He proceeded to prove this memorably in the glass, with the finest collection I have ever tasted at this address (as well as – improbably – one in which Fruhlingsplatzchen outperformed Halenberg).Imported by Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644; also imported by Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (877) 389-9463