A dark, brooding wine, the 2008 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Toni is laced with tobacco, scorched earth, smoke and plums. This is another huge Montepulciano, but the style is less overt than the Malandrino and, oddly enough, more varietal. Licorice, tobacco and menthol wrap around a dark, brooding finish. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018. Cataldi Madonna is one of the very finest estates in Italy. The wines are varietally expressive, full of personality and beautifully crafted. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200