The single-vineyard 2005 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Toni is a firm, dark wine packed with black fruit, smoke, earthiness, leather and herbs made in a full-bodied, intense style capable of standing up to the heartiest of foods. The finish is long, sweet and pure. For now the wine needs some bottle age, but occasionally its inner sweetness emerges, suggesting what is in store for the future. Oenologist Lorenzo Landi gave the Toni 18 months in French oak followed by another 18 months’ aging in bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2015. This is a lovely set of wines from Cataldi Madonna, one of Abruzzo’s top properties. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200