The 2008 Chardonnay Four Hearts Vineyard is a cross blend of four separate sources in Russian River. Crisp, zesty notes of citrus, peaches, lemon oil, candied apples, and brioche along with tart acids are found in this lean Chardonnay as well as impressive minerality and a long finish. One of the best wineries in Sonoma, Hartford Family Winery, under the guidance of winemaker Jeff Mangalas, continues to fine tune an impressive portfolio of wines, all from cool climate sites. The top wines are Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs all sold under the Hartford Court label, followed by some Zinfandels (sold under the Hartford moniker) that merit more attention than they receive. All of the winery’s Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs are fermented with indigenous yeasts, and are bottled without fining or filtration. The three Chardonnays among the current releases are all outstanding. Available through Vin Lux Fine Wines, tel. (866) 462-4641; Fax (866) 853-1707