The 2007 Chardonnay Four Hearts, aged in 40% new oak and 100% barrel-fermented, boasts a creamy, creme brulee-like character along with oodles of orange blossom, nectarine, and crushed rock notes, a full-bodied mouthfeel, stunning richness and purity, and zesty acidity. Like so many of the 2007s, its sensational fragrance and fruit purity are dazzling. All of these Chardonnays have 4-6 years of aging potential, perhaps even longer. One of my favorite wineries in the Jess Jackson portfolio, it looks like Hartford Family Winery’s 2007s are going to be fabulous, but the 2006 Pinot Noirs reveal some of the shortcomings for this varietal in that vintage. As for the Chardonnays, the two 2007s I tasted are both gorgeous wines. As I have stated before, 2006 was a challenging vintage for Pinot Noir, and that’s reflected in these cuvees. All are certainly good, and one is outstanding, but the botrytis as well as the unusual growing season made it difficult for a fragile varietal like Pinot Noir. Available through Vin Lux Fine Wines, tel.(866) 462-4641; Fax (866) 853-1707; www.vinluxfinewines.com

A very lush, fruity wine, if a bit soft, with flavors of pineapples, lemon custard, buttered toast and smoky vanilla. Satisfies for its richness and creamy texture.——S.H.(8/1/2009)—— 89