Consumers looking for less drama, some subtlety, and more focus than Morey's other offerings, should try the 1992 Chassagne-Montrachet-Morgeot. A rich, buttery, floral, mineral-scented nose is followed by a wine with medium to full body, higher acidity than Morey's other offerings, and plenty of power, alcohol, and glycerin in the finish. It may not last any longer than the other 1992s, but it is more structured.
It continues to be rare to find anything less than exciting from Bernard Morey, a red-cheeked vigneron with a fifties pompadour haircut. His wines are delicious in off years, so it is not surprising he has hit the bull's eye with the 1992s. Although these offerings had just been bottled when I tasted them, they were still immensely impressive wines.
Importer: Vineyard Brands (Robert Haas), Chester, VT.
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