Domaine Arnaud Ente Meursault le Petit Charrons

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Smoky, toasty notes – only a portion of which can be traceable to the wine's 25% new wood – commence in the nose with Ente’s old vines 2007 Meursault Les Petits Charrons and follow it all the way through its long finish. Roasted hazelnut, buckwheat, and meat-stock like richness all reminiscent of the 2006 mark the glycerin-rich, oleaginous palate. This finishes with low-toned restraint that some might consider somber, but the combined effect of citrus zest, salt, smoke, and umami-rich broth combines to engender a sense of invigoration. It should be quite fascinating to pursue this over the next 4-5 years, and I would not be at all surprised to see its dark veil part to reveal further beauty. Arnaud Ente began picking September 2, but although he is nearly always a partisan of early harvest, this one was spread out over nearly two weeks to optimize the aggregation of clarity and sufficient ripeness. That said, high acidity – including a sizeable share of malic acid – remained a common denominator and higher than in 2004 because, in Ente's words, "there was no heat during the summer to burn it off." His malo-lactic fermentations, however, were finished already in mid-winter. Natural alcohol levels were low – predictably, given both the vintage and Ente's strategy and preferences – not exceeding 12.5%, and only the Aliogte was chaptalized. For Ente, vintages without hot summer weather are simply the more interesting and enjoyable, thanks in large part precisely to their higher acidity and lower alcohol.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524