The 1999 REDOMA RESERVA Branco is a library wine, tasted only at the winery, where I had several older whites. I thought this, sandwiched between a '01 and a '96, was arguably the best, noting that, as the saying goes, when wines get older it is about the bottle, no longer just the wine. Seeming to be in perfect shape, it was simply gorgeous, fresh and young, a bit marked by oak, but beautifully balanced and showing distinction and class. I did not have the opportunity to see what would happen in two hours, but it is an impressive performance for a white in a region where the whites garner little respect. It seems full of life still. Drink now-2015.
Niepoort's output, largely from old vines and high altitude, always has a certain refinement and elegance in common, even in the biggest vintages. It is an interesting aspect of this warm weather wine region. In 2009, a big vintage for most of the rest of the region, the reds seem generally restrained and quite crisp, a little eccentric compared to the typical Douro output in this year. Normally, I feel Niepoort does extremely well in the bigger vintages. This year, I am less sure.
Importers: Martine's Wines, Inc., Novato, CA.; tel: (415) 883-0400; except in New York/New Jersey: Eric Solomon, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565.
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