Scents of freesia, pink grapefruit, and blood orange anticipate the combination of exotic richness with luscious citricity (despite its analytically modest acidity) that characterize the palate performance of Foreau’s 2009 Vouvray Demi-Sec. For all of its superficial sense of richness, body, and high-glycerin, this displays not just the aforementioned potential for some refreshment, but also an underlying sense of restraint and chalky, alkaline minerality. Foreau thinks this is like a stallion being held back at the starting gate and that when the full range of 2009 richness and complexity is unbridled there will be a much more impressive show. Perhaps – but I find it pretty impressive in its way, already, and at the demi-sec level there is ample precedent chez Foreau for wine that can be worth following for 15-20 years. Considering that few white wine growers anywhere can boast the track record of Philippe Foreau, his Vouvrays are priced to continue offering wonderful value. This becomes especially (at times depressingly) evident when one compares the much higher prices asked for Chenin from certain appellations further West that have traditionally been treated as superior according to the still rather hide-bound French pecking order, even when they deliver questionable or even dismal results. Buy these wines now, before the market for Loire wine at last becomes a meritocracy! Foreau thinks the high flint content in his sites helped convey minerality even in a vintage as rich (to the point where rendering balanced sec was tricky) as is 2009, but as in other very warm vintages of the past two decades the excitement chez Foreau is at the top end of the must weight spectrum. “I have never in my career had such acidity with this degree of richness,” opines Foreau of his two top 2009s. Alluding to 2008’s record-breaking rains and consequent flooding in certain sectors of Vouvray – which for a critical while rendered it impossible to get into one’s vineyards to treat the vines, other than on foot and with tanks strapped to one’s back – Foreau remarked matter-of-factly: “this vintage stared out badly, but finished well, while 2007 started out well and finished badly” – and just how well 2008 was capable of finishing, there is no better place to witness than in Foreau’s cellar. Foreau opines that working the lees – fashionable anyway now with Loire Chenin and a younger generation – was a mistake in 2008 as it ameliorated the acidity, if at all, at the expense of clarity and focus.Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990
粵公網(wǎng)安備 44030502006249號(hào)