Hallmarks of 2005 are, in Foreau’s words, “elegance and equilibrium,” and – just as in 2002 – I would argue that the supreme expression of this vintage here might be said to reside in his exceptional 2005 Vouvray Demi-Sec. With a winsome bouquet of honeysuckle, buddleia, quince, marzipan, ginger, and apricot, this proves amazingly dense and rich in the mouth, with deep, bitter-sweet walnut and fruit pit notes, yet still bespeaks a remarkable elegance and a nearly perfect balance of fruit and acidity. Without benefit of the label, many tasters would call this wine of 18 grams residual sugar “dry.” An eloquent exchange of wood smoke, chalk and salt with quince, apple, marzipan, ginger, and sweet flowers marks its long, engaging, finish. This demi-sec that can be enjoyed now, but will not be at its best for at least several years, should be worth following for at least a decade. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990