The 2006 Select Shiraz spent 24 months in new French and seasoned American oak. Aromas of tobacco, underbrush, lavender, game, and blueberry lead to a flavorful, mouth filling yet restrained Shiraz that has 3-5 years of aging potential. Drink it from 2013 to 2021. Importer: Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; www.oldbridgecellars.com

Penley’s vineyards, towards the warmer north end of Coonawarra, consistently produce noteworthy Shiraz. It’s on the big size, at 15% alcohol, but structured, with bushels of mixed berries supported by cinnamon toast, brown sugar and a hint of mintiness. Drink it now and over the next 10 years.——J.C.(3/1/2010)—— 90