The 2004 Shiraz Special Select raises the bar considerably. It was barrel-fermented in 100% new oak, mostly American. It reveals an alluring bouquet of cedar, earth, pencil lead, smoked meat and game, licorice, blueberry, and blackberry. Full-bodied, it is still tightly wound but very well-balanced. It is full-flavored, spicy, and succulent with 6-8 years of aging potential. It should drink well through 2024.Importer: Gavin Speight, Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 258-9552; www.penley.com.au

The 2004 Shiraz Special Select raises the bar considerably. It was barrel-fermented in 100% new oak, mostly American. It reveals an alluring bouquet of cedar, earth, pencil lead, smoked meat and game, licorice, blueberry, and blackberry. Full-bodied, it is still tightly wound but very well-balanced. It is full-flavored, spicy, and succulent with 6-8 years of aging potential. It should drink well through 2024. Importer: Gavin Speight, Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 258-9552; www.penley.com.au

Fine, ripe, redcurrant and herbs nose, pure and fresh. Lovely flavour. Deep plum and herbs, some spice. A big wine, loaded with tannins. Long spicy notes on the finish.

Coonawarra is supposed to be Cabernet country, but Shiraz can do well there too. This is a full-bodied, rich wine that manages to be hugely concentrated yet not overly heavy. Leathery, meaty, bacony notes are layered over plummy fruit, while berry notes emerge on the finish, dusted in coffee and cocoa. Drink now–2020.——J.C.(8/1/2008)—— 92