The 2005 Riesling Altenberg de Bergbieten Cuvee Henriette – this being the cuvee designation routinely used by the Mochels for their top dry Riesling – was picked three days later than their “regular” Altenberg Riesling. With abundant fresh lime, zesty tangerine rind, and overt chalkiness from the nose through its finish, this pungently concentrated Riesling begs for a few years in the cellar. Doughy, rich and substantial on the palate – in complete contrast to the lean delicacy of the “regular” Altenberg – with apricot and apricot pit joining its citrus chorus, it displays fine clarity, penetration, and persistence in the finish. Guillaume Mochel suggests the wine needs another 3-4 years to really strut its stuff, but it’s already mighty impressive. Frederic and son Guillaume Mochel clearly work as an excellent team, farming almost exclusively acreage in the steep chalky slopes of Bergbieten’s Altenberg, but bottling only their top cuvees as vineyard-designated “Grand Crus.”A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29.