The 2004 Riesling Altenberg de Bergbieten Cuvee Henriette displays a distinctly fungal, faintly truffle-like botrytis note in the nose, accompanied by hints of smoke, petrol, and citrus rind. Quite substantial in the mouth, with lees and chalk dust suggestions in a matrix of peach and citrus, this finishes strongly, clear in fruit and mineral character, its fascinating fungal funkiness seemingly confined to the nose. (The luscious and strikingly mineral and still youthfully fresh – but, alas, long sold out – 2002 is, incidentally, the best of recent Henriette cuvees.) The Mochel’s Muscats are 100% Ottonel.Frederic and son Guillaume Mochel clearly work as an excellent team, farming almost exclusively acreage in the steep chalky slopes of Bergbieten’s Altenberg, but bottling only their top cuvees as vineyard-designated “Grand Crus.”A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29.