The 2005 Gelber Muskateller Steinbach from Styria’s top vintner Manfred Tement smells alluringly of fresh apricot, orange blossom, and sage. Glossy and satisfyingly mouthfilling in a way that this variety seldom is, yet lively and bracing as is expected of it, this exhibits sap and stamina that only a few of the 2005s I tasted from the region possess. A real finish, much less one as bell-clear as this, with lemon peel, apricot, sage and tangerine, cannot be assumed with Muskateller, a variety than can tend toward the brusque and abrupt. Tement’s flagship Sauvignon Blanc from the Zieregg was a bit bitter, warm, and aromatically shut down when I tasted it but certainly was full of stuffing and may well simply need time. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800