The 1990 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is drinking well, offering up an expressive bouquet of smoky plums, sweet forest floor and summer truffles that avoid the extremes of torrefaction that some wines from this vintage display. On the palate, it's medium-bodied, supple and satiny, with fresh acids, moderate concentration and depth and stony structuring tannins that still gently assert themselves on the finish. Fully mature, there's no reason to defer pulling corks.