Try blind-tasting this charming wine and guessing the varietals, which happen to be Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. It drinks a little generically red, but soft tannins, lots of ripe berry fruit, tobacco, spice, and an attractive dryness combine to make it luscious. It's not especially complex, and best drunk young, but this is a style of wine that turns white-wine drinkers into red- wine lovers. ——S.H.(11/15/2000)—— 86