Drier and firmer than the ’04, this year’s Lee shows a slightly dense texture, and even a dusting of tannins that contribute to ageability. The flavors are deep, of red cherries, coffee and smoky oak, with a meaty chewiness. It’s a young wine, cellar it for a year before opening, and it should provide elegant drinking through 2011 or so.——S.H.(5/1/2007)—— 90