For one of the more enthusiastically run Burgundy domaines, Bruno Clair's 1991s are a major disappointment. They lack color, concentration, and richness, and are dominated by excessively high tannins that make all these wines, save for the soft, light-bodied 1991 Marsannay-Les Longeroies, hollow, harsh, tough, and devoid of charm and finesse. One can only speculate on how the 1991 harvest was handled by Bruno Clair, but he is far more talented and conscientious than these wines suggest. Even allowing for the fact that they may have been tasted at an ungraceful period of development, their light ruby colors and the severity of their tannins are unfortunate. Importer: Hand Picked Selections, Dan Kravitz, Warrenton, VA.
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