帕克團(tuán)隊(duì)
90
eRobertParker.com, #205Feb 2013
From that portion of this site whose surrender to botrytis proved noble, Kruger-Rumpf's 2011 Binger Scharlachberg Riesling Spatlese smells of soursop, resin and overripe honeydew melon, which then inform a broad, oily, moderately juicy mid-palate. Hints of citrus pip and rind bitterness serve to extend and to push back against the sweetness of a sustained finish. While this suffers in direct comparison with the corresponding Dautenpflanzer, it should prove lovely over at least the next dozen years. Stefan and Georg Rump have collaborated on a strong 2011 collection, confirming the impression that two generations are better than one and that some of the best wines in many years or perhaps ever are nowadays issuing from this estate. But I can't help pointing out that, just as was so often the case two decades and more ago, the most expressive bottlings this year have turned out to be ones harboring significant residual sugar. "You had to get started picking at some point- before the end of September, opines young Georg Rumpf, "or you were liable to lose too much acidity and arrive at too much alcohol especially for basic Riesling. The grapes looked good, they tasted good ... a woman is nine months pregnant" - the equivalence to 100 days grape gestation?! - "and then it's time for a child to come into the world. In the event, we harvested for relatively long, almost until the end of October.- (I was unable to devote time on this occasion to tasting Kruger-Rumpf's multiple bottlings of Silvaner, Pinot Blanc, or Pinot Noir - there were, after all, already two dozen bottles on the table and a tight schedule to keep - though these often merit attention.)Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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